in a Havana paladar

A paladar is a small, family-run restaurant, usually in a converted part of a home. The Cuban authorities started allowing certain small private enterprises, like these paladars. Our hotel guard suggested this one near the hotel (one has to ask, as there is no official promotion for them). The heavy curtains were for hiding the ruinous street from our view, and also to stop the plebs from looking in. Chicken is a luxury for the average Cuban (one leg was for Thelma, one for me). In the middle of the table, on a plate, you can see the most common Cuban side dish of boiled rice with black beans. It has an interesting name in Spanish: "Moros y Cristianos" meaning Moors and Christians. Originally, in Spain the black beans represented the Moors and the white rice represented the Christians. In Cuba, the name of this dish refers to the mix of African and Spanish cultures. We felt a bit guilty, because it was like rich tourists gorging themselves in a poor country. But, at least, we were a source of income for them.